Heredity

06/05/2013 12:45

So I've been playing on the direct to fist full of crystals the last couple weeks aka heredity. A simon nadin variant, which has not been repeated. Goes at e6 6c. So I finally figured to beta, above a horrible landing, and when u get stood up you really aint prepared for the slab. So after I figured the beta, I picked my day to do it and got going. I fell a few times trying to get stood up then when I did get established, I jumped off thinking ill do it on the next go, but I don't get there again.

A couple days later and I'm back, an extra pads and a film crew. Its warmer now. I get to work on the boulder start again. After the first couple goes I fall trying to get established, but on the 4th try I get established and carry on. Its a ground up ascent, and all my beta of thhe crystals bit and all my technique goes out o the window. Somehow I maul myself to the finishing jug and a slight panic on. But now its done 2nd ascent of this 20 year old line. Bloody hell.