Facing old projects
Ok. so ive said before that i would normally put problems on me ticklist which are just out of my reach, Another Nadin Traverse at Doxey pool is one such problem. This is year 2 now its been on the list. Previous to this ive looked at it and have always thought, 'where the fuck r the holds', but as time ticks on and i improve, i still dont know if its doable, but know the grade is within my capabilities. The traverse has a sequence to it, a long tiring one and when you take a break from it, you have to figure it out all again and you loose the feel of the problem, also skin gets thin fast. Last year i started projecting it, returning over and over. You see with a long hard sequency traverse like ANT, there is no luck in doing it first time, you just have to be extremely talented, i say talented, but even at this point, its not had a single repeat, since the great man mr nadin did it many years back.
Last year when i kept on making the long wet walk up to the pool, carrying 2 mats strapped together, a bag and dog seat cover for the floor, i would work on the traverse in different sections. The sit start bit (old school 7b probelm alone - 7a now), coming out of the arete onto the slab, going across, getting a foot onto the big start ledge of drowning pool, and going up bit. Basicly theres loads to it. Bit by bit making progress. Fianlly towards the end of the season, i had planned to go up at a certain point of the day, just before it was set to rain. I get up there and the rain is clearly on its way. Its not raining yet, but you can feel it in the air. I warm up as usual, doing most the problems on the crag, but being careful to retain skin and have a few work goes at it. Today was different, i feel good and after a few goes im connecting the whole thing all the way to where you throw a foot onto the start ledge of drowning pool. Game on!!! this is my crux, its a big chuck, im convinving myself you have to be tall to do it. Again i have another go, same place again. Damn i think, i get to this point everytime, but am knackered for the crux, then the rain arrives. Game over.... being late march, the sun is starting to get warm in its midst, so this was also to be the last session of the season on this.
Its September, ive got a full time job and only have 1 hour slots after work free, its been a wet summer and its a cool day, ive made my tick list a few days prior and decide another trip to ANT, same old process, same old warm up. When working projects i like to work alone, unless its on rope. I dont like being rushed or be put under pressure. I chalk up and say to myself, 'time to remember the sequence', my first go i get to the foot chuck and come of, im instantly psyched, ive made a vast imrovement over the spring and summer. Although i fell of at the crux again, i wasent tired, so i figure a sequence for my feet, which works for me, i project this bit for ages and come to the conclusion, that its luck if i get it. Home time. Ill return tomoz then at the weekend when its forecast cooler weather. Ive researched the problem in the week as im really psyched> its got a long history, seeing of the areas finist suitors, and it looks like someone did it not long ago, but it turned out to be bullshit, basicly its not had a second ascent, sounds up my street. Story of my life.
Its saturday and its warm. im gutted, as i need cold conditions, but i stick with the plan. I head up and warm up. but its still warm, its Sept so its bound to cool down later, but its only mid afternoon, i cant sit here for 3 hours waiting. 45 mins goes by, ive looked up and down the traverse, waiting it to cool, as the slab was still warm and i figure out a new foot placement and decide ill use it when i have a go. Its still warm. Ive had several brews at this point. Drastic times calls for drastic measures. I figure that if the slab isant gonna cool, my hands must.
I stick my hand in a cold pool of water for a few minutes, trying to cheat the conditions and i get on it. All the way accross i get to the foot chuck, i stick it, just going up now. fuck it feels hard. i do it!!! This is what i wrote in me book not long after to recored the whole event:
"3rd day of working on it, warmish slab, but a cool breeze> After nearly waiting an hour, uming and Aring, i decide the slab isant going to cool, so i put my hands in a cold puddle of peaty water for a few mins to get them cooled> It paid off, i flashed the bastard. First time. Nearly messed up the top, but i knew it was mine. SWEET!!! 7c+ for sure"
Well there we have it. Sticking with a plan and project really does pay of, its taken me a while, but sometimes you have to be a little selfish if it means success.