back on the project and gardoms

03/02/2013 10:06

so after a break in the weather, theres a couple cold days. i finish work at 4 and head straight to the clouds. my goal is to work on the super mario 8a??? project again. a few goes in and ive got the beta to the crux and where i need more pads and a spotter, but at least ive found the beta again, but i do get a reminder of the painful parts of the traverse and destroy my knee. but i know i can do another extended link up into the problem "trust" - 7a+ from the start of super mario, this will make it about a 7b problem and im still debating on a name for it.

 

yeasterday i was going to head back to fourth cloud to finish off the unnamed climb and take an extra pad for super mario and knee protection, but seb is about nd the conditions are just super emence, so we decide to head east. we decide that going to gardoms will be the option, and it proves to be a good choice. Its well busy wit folk but we have our goal in site, mine is to do suovito - 7b, ive tried this a couple times before and a big deadpoint move in the middle of the wall always stops me. we warm up and do china in my hand - 7b on the second go and i feel good, we get on souvito, just as a large crowd of boulderers turn up, seb is having major problems with his skin, but i feel good, i re sus the beta i already know and get to wat i think is the crux, after a short while ive figured how to get through the crux and its game on. after a couple falls going or the top, i manage to catch it will a ballsey throw above the pointy boulder, which ive already scrapped my ass on , on a previous go, but seb is spotting, so my head is clear. top out is ok and ive got the mega buzz again. 

the only thing left i want to do this end of gardoms is jackalobe, a notorious 7a offwidth crack, i get it on the second go and then take the long wet walk back.

 

below is a pic of suovito at the deadpoint crux and a picture of the tetris block with the new  added project lines and also all the originals

happy days